Laser vs. Electrolysis

Laser Technology

Laser hair removal (LHR) machines have a hand-held wand that’s moved across the skins’ surface. It emits light waves of varying lengths and colors in search of melanin in the hair follicle beneath the skins’ surface. The light energy changes to heat and is absorbed at the deepest point in the skin where the melanin begins, damaging the follicle enough to slow down hair growth.

Lasers are not precision tools because it can never target areas smaller than the tip of the wand, thus it can never target specific hairs and avoid others in the same area. Therefore, it not only impacts the dark, coarse hairs, but it also impacts the thin vellus hairs in that area, also know as peach fuzz, if they have even the slightest amount of melanin present.

If these hairs are completely blonde, and a non-Nd:YAG laser is being used, the laser’s less likely to detect these hairs and there’s less of a threat to them becoming terminal (dark coarse hairs). However, those with vellus hair that contain the slightest amount of melanin are at risk of them turning into coarse, dark hairs in as late as one-year after the last LHR treatment was administered. This is known as paradoxical hypertrichosis » (PH) and unfortunately all laser and light sources have the potential to cause hair induction »; which is why those with skin types III, VI, V, and VI » are encouraged to avoid the danger zones », especially if an underlying androgen hormonal condition is also present. These circumstances are where PH is most likely to occur.

Since LHR relies on a contrast between foreground (skin) and background (hair) in order to detect what it should and should not target, most LHR types pose the threat of burning skin on those without this ratio. However, the Nd: YAG laser is said to be the most sensitive to hair and skin color and has a higher success rate on darker skin types. This does not exempt the Nd: YAG from potentially inducing more hair growth, but there is lesser chance of burned skin as long as the machines’ settings are aligned appropriately. However LHR patients are required to shave the area before it’s treated to minimize the amount of melanin at the surface of the skin and prevent any additional risk of burns.

The five most common types of lasers in use today include Alexandrite, Diode, IPL, Nd: YAG, and Ruby. They each have their unique strengths and limitations which is why it is pertinent for anyone getting LHR to ensure their laser technician is using the one best suited for their specific hair and skin conditions. Unlike electrolysis machines, all laser types cannot be used on all skin and hair colors. There are additional limitations on those with freckled skin, tattoos, vitiligo and moles. Learn more about the types of lasers » and which is best for you.

Important note: Laser technology, no matter how advanced, is still unable to destroy the hair follicle during its process. It can only damage the follicle enough so it grows a new hair slower than it’s natural regrowth rate (18-24mths). If after years of laser, a client chooses to stop their treatments, the follicles will regenerate and the hair will eventually grown back. And unfortunately, the follicle had been so damaged over the years that it becomes very distorted, increasing the risk of ingrown hairs upon regrowth on those with wavy to curly-patterned hair. In fact, any hair removal process that rips hair from the follicle, like waxing, sugaring and threading, also cause distortion, thus the increased chance of ingrown hairs upon regrowth.

Any medications that are photosensitive » need to be stopped prior to LHR treatments. Most antihistamines, tetracycline antibiotics, and oral contraceptives tend to be photosensitive, among many others, so push your treatment back a few weeks and check with your doctor before proceeding.

Electrolysis Technology

Electrolysis was invented in 1875 to remove ingrown eyelashes. It was later used for other parts of the body as a form of permanent hair removal.

Electrolysis hair removal (EHR) machines use a pen like apparatus that has one end plugged into the machine, and the other is designed to hold a needle-like instrument called a probe. The probe chosen should never be larger than the diameter of the hair it’s targeting.

Using the probe, the electrologist is able to target individual hairs and thus does not impact the hairs around it until those hairs are also targeted. Therefore, the probe allows for the smallest degree of precision necessary to target hairs on the body enabling an electrologist to line up the eyebrows, sideburns, and a man’s goatee or beard with such precision. A LHR machine cannot provide this level precision, no matter how skilled the LHR professional. This is also why electrolysis treatments take longer and require more upfront sessions than LHR.

When the probe is inserted into the pore (where the hair exits the body), it is lowered to the base of the hair (the follicle) where an electric current is administered, using one of the three electrolysis modalities » to destroy the hair growth cells and the blood supply called the papilla. These components are necessary for a hair to grow thus the destruction of them prevents a new hair from growing once treated with electrolysis.

Many people assume a new hair growing in the same area days after an electrolysis session is an old hair that was not properly removed; when in fact, it’s a new hair that was in a different growth cycle » that had yet to grow long enough to breach the skins’ surface at the time of the last treatment. The hair growth cycle lasts from 18-24 months on the body which is why multiple, regular treatments are necessary, even after the initial clearing, to ensure all hairs are addressed at the same rate at which they grow.

Think about how the hair on your head sheds what seems like tons of hairs when combing through it; and yet, thousands of hairs still remain on your head when you are done. This shedding process is part of the natural hair cycle and it occurs everywhere on the body except the lips, palms of hands and soles of feet.

The anagen growth phase is the most ideal state for most types of hair removal; however, with electrolysis, once all hairs have cycled in and been treated, the hair is gone forever. You will NOT need long-term maintenance treatments once complete.

Unlike laser technology, any electrolysis machine is safe for all skin and hair color combinations, including those with tattoos, freckles, vitiligo, and with a doctor’s permission, it can also remove hair from some moles. Electrolysis treatment requires the hair length to be long enough to seen by the electrologist and gripped by a tweezer (approximately 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch).

The limitations of electrolysis have more to do with the expertise of the electrolysis professional than with the technology or the science behind it.

Laser Professional

Although not all, most states restrict laser professionals to first being medically licensed, like a nurse or doctor.

Beyond that the limitations of a laser professional tend to be as follows:

Expertise + Equipment - While it is impossible for the LHR professional to be precise down to a single hair because of the limitations of the wand size, understanding the proper settings for unique hair and skin types, and knowing when to deem someone a non-candidate based on those restrictions is incredibly important. However, the LHR professional must also be willing to turn a client away if the machine they have isn’t ideal for the patients’ conditions and this is where we find laser professionals doing the most harm.

Unethical Practices - Remember, many laser professionals are also medically trained nurses and doctors who made promises to protect their patients from undue harm. So when they fail to advise on the risks of burns and potential paradoxical hypertrichosis, and when they don’t suggest alternatives that better suit their patient’s conditions, like electrolysis for example, a question of their ethics come into play. However, there are several of them who just don’t know any better which is why it’s important you also protect yourself. Learn more about the types of lasers » and laser candidates ».

At Electrolysis Beauty Lounge, when we meet a new client who wants a dense area treated and qualifies as an LHR candidate, we offer the suggestion to first getting LHR in the area to slow down the growth process because it will help them better manage their unwanted hair and deliver more immediate results. After LHR treatments are complete and the hair begins to slowly grow back, we suggest they return to us so we can begin removing the hairs permanently.

Of course this poses the risk of follicle distortion which can add complexity to their electrolysis treatments, but short-term treatments won’t have as much of a negative impact as years of treatment would, so it’s still a reasonable trade-off. LHR also poses an additional financial burden, but the cost model for this approach averages to being about the same for areas covered with dense hair. Give us a call » and we’d be happy to discuss this further.

Electrologist

According to the American Electrology Association (AEA) » there are 32 U.S. states that require an electrologist to obtain a license before they are allowed to practice electrology. New Jersey, where we are located, is one of them. Electrologists who operate in an unlicensed state often seek the CPE certification, offered by the AEA to validate their credibility. Beyond that, the limitations of an electrology professional are as follows:

Expertise - Precision is very important in electrolysis because the electrologist must accurately insert the probe to the base of each hair follicle to properly destroy the hair growth cells and the blood supply (papilla). These are the components necessary for a hair to grow. Failure to do will result in the regrowth of significantly thinner and weaker, but once treated a second time, the chance of destroying what remains is nearly 100%.

Settings + Modalities - It’s critical an electrologist sets the machine to the correct settings based on the diameter of the hair, depth of the hair, growth phase of the hair, and the shape of the hair (straight, C or S-patterned). If these settings are too high, there is a risk of the heat damaging the skin’s surface tissue. If they are too low, the follicle will not be destroyed, the hair will not release properly, and weaker, thinner hair will regrow in its place. It’s also very important for an electrologist to understand the client’s skin conditions » as these too contribute to their success.

Lastly, there are three modalities of electrolysis » to suit your needs. There’s Galvanic, Thermolysis, and the Blend, which is a the combination of the first two. Galvanic and the Blend work well for those with wavy, C and S-patterned curly hair when the electrologist cannot extend the straight probe to the base of the follicle. These modalities are great for those with a lower tolerance to discomfort and have a dense area being treated like the underarms, genital region, legs, and the chests of men or women with androgen-related hormonal disorders. If an electrologist isn’t skilled in all modalities or isn’t willing to use all modalities when it best suits their clients’ needs, their ability to properly treat whoever walks into their studio is limited.

If you have C or S patterned hair, be sure to ask your electrolysis about the Galvanic and Blend methods before beginning treatment. If you have additional questions, feel free to contact us »

Electrolysis is safe on all parts of the body except the inner ear, inside the nose and the rim of the anus because of the higher moisture contents. Remember, we are using electricity to destroy the hair, and the moisture content in these areas make it too risky to use electrolysis.

Unique Limitations - The eyesight and dexterity of an electrologist also impacts treatments because of the precision necessary to be effective. In addition, there are some electrologists who are unwilling to work on the genital region.

Why is there so much confusion between LHR and EHR?

There are several reasons…

1. People with influential authority are passing on false information about the risks and limitations of LHR.

2. Competitors don’t want you to know the truth about electrolysis’ superiority as the only FDA approved method for permanent hair removal. If you click through LHR websites, you will notice that most don’t even list electrolysis among its list of competitors. You’ll only see waxing, shaving, possibly sugaring, and threading, and maybe even various at-home devices.

3. People trust doctors and nurses. Most states require laser be performed by a medically licensed professional, so when dermatologists suggest LHR as the best or only option for hair removal, and then go as far as claiming it is permanent, people believe them. Why wouldn’t they?

4. LHR companies spend tons of money on advertisements full of misleading information making LHR seem like the answer to everyone’s unwanted hair prayers; and, they offer first-time clients big, packaged discounts to seal the deal. The LHR industry fails when it comes to being fully transparent about its limitations and risks, and most LHR professionals don’t even suggest EHR as a more viable option when it’s applicable to their clients, even though they are ethically obligated to do so.

5. The electrolysis industry is not nearly as aggressive in the advertising space even though it’s been around since 1875 so, the lack of awareness around EHR is partially our own fault. And unfortunately, there’s only a small fraction of as many electrologists offering EHR in the U.S. than there are laser professionals, so we are also greatly outnumbered.

   For perspective, as of November 2020, there were 105 electrologists in New Jersey registered with the American Electrology Association ». By January 2021 that number reduced to 98 because of the number of electrologists who either retired because they were unwilling to take the risk of operating during the Covid crisis even once NJ law allowed it, or because they did not renew their membership due to lost wages during the pandemic. However, according to healthgrades », there are 566 dermatologists (medical doctors) in New Jersey and that number excludes qualifying nurses and other medical professionals who can also legally administer LHR. Simply put, we are outnumbered by more than 5 to 1 in one of the wealthiest and highest per capita states in America.

Food for thought … Medical professionals failing to recommend electrolysis to their patients as a solution to unwanted hair growth, is like not recommending exercise and an improved diet among the top suggestions to improve their health. Instead, they only prescribe medications with known adverse side effects which specifically impact those with the same attributes of their patient; namely those with skin types III, IV, V, VI and those with certain hormonal disorders. Since LHR professionals must be have a medical license in most states, neglect to mention EHR as a hair removal alternative is a violation by those with the highest ethical and legal responsibility when managing a patient’s health. Ring the shame bell alarm.

You really can’t make this stuff up!! But as we mentioned earlier, don’t just take our word for it … look it up. Get started by using the links provided throughout this site and if you ever have additional questions, feel free to contact us » directly.

Learn more about who is and is not the perfect laser candidate »